Your washer stops mid-cycle and the display shows OE. Or F9E1. Or 5C. You google it and get a hundred different answers depending on which forum thread you land on. Half of them are wrong because they're about a different brand or a different model year.
This is a reference guide we put together from the codes we see most often in the field. Look up your brand, find your code, see what it means, and find out which ones you can fix yourself in 10 minutes versus which need a service call.
One important note before you start: your model matters more than your brand. A Whirlpool top-loader from 2015 uses different codes than a Whirlpool front-loader from 2023. Make sure your code matches your specific model. The codes below cover the most common shared codes within each brand line, but for an exact lookup, check your owner's manual or the data plate inside the door.
LG Washer Error Codes
LG uses two-letter codes. Here are the most common ones we see on calls:
| Code | Meaning | First Thing to Check |
|---|---|---|
| OE | Drain error: water won't pump out | Clean the drain pump filter (front-loaders) |
| IE | Inlet error: water won't fill | Check water supply valves, inspect inlet hoses for kinks |
| UE | Unbalanced load | Redistribute laundry, check for level |
| LE | Motor lock: usually a Hall sensor issue | Unplug 30 min and retry. If recurs, call |
| dE | Door not closed properly | Push door firmly, check the door latch |
| FE | Overfill: water level too high | Usually a stuck water inlet valve. Service call. |
| tE | Heating temperature error | Heater element or temp sensor. Service call. |
| PE | Water level pressure sensor error | Air tube to sensor often loose or clogged. Service call. |
| CE | Motor circuit / overcurrent | Service call. Motor or inverter board issue. |
Most common LG repair we see: OE drain errors. Almost always a clog in the drain pump filter behind the small access door at the front-bottom of the washer. Unscrew the cap, drain into a shallow pan, remove debris. Need help?
Samsung Washer Error Codes
Samsung uses combinations of letters and numbers. Common codes:
| Code | Meaning | First Thing to Check |
|---|---|---|
| 4C / 4E | Water supply error | Check inlet hoses and supply valves |
| 5C / SC / 5E | Drain error | Clean drain filter and pump area |
| UB / Ub / U6 | Unbalanced load | Redistribute laundry |
| dC / dE | Door lock error | Push door firmly, inspect latch |
| 3C / 3E | Motor / Hall sensor error | Service call. Drive belt or motor issue. |
| tE / tC | Temperature sensor | Service call. |
| LC / LE | Leakage detected | Stop using. Service call. |
| 9C / 9E | Power source error / line voltage | Unplug 5 min. If recurs, electrical issue. |
| HE / H1 | Heater error | Service call. |
Samsung-specific note: Many Samsung washers were part of a 2016-2017 recall related to top-loader explosion risk. If you have a top-loader from those years and you're seeing repeated errors, check that your unit isn't still under the recall remediation program.
Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
Whirlpool uses F-codes with sub-numbers (FxEx format). Most common:
| Code | Meaning | First Thing to Check |
|---|---|---|
| F9E1 | Drain error: long drain | Drain hose, filter, drain pump |
| F8E1 / F8E2 | Water supply / detergent dispenser | Inlet valves and dispenser assembly |
| F5E2 / F5E3 | Door lock failure | Door latch assembly. Often replaceable. |
| F7E1 / F7E5 | Motor / drive failure | Service call. |
| F0E1 | Suds detected: too much detergent | Reduce detergent, use HE-rated |
| F0E2 | Excessive suds during drain | Run a clean cycle, switch detergent |
| Sud or Sd | Suds lock: too much detergent | Same as F0E1/F0E2 |
| F2E3 | Stuck key on control panel | Unplug, wait 5 min. If recurs, control panel. |
| F1E1 / F1E2 | Main control board failure | Service call. Often board-rebuildable. |
Whirlpool tip: The Sud / Suds code is widely underdiagnosed. Modern HE washers use very little water and even slightly over-dosed detergent creates a suds blanket that the drain pump can't move. If you see Sud / Sd, run an empty washer through a Clean Washer cycle (or a hot cycle with no detergent) before assuming there's a hardware problem.
Maytag Washer Error Codes
Maytag is owned by Whirlpool and uses the same code structure on modern units. The codes overlap heavily. Most common Maytag-specific calls:
| Code | Meaning | First Thing to Check |
|---|---|---|
| F9E1 | Drain too long (same as Whirlpool) | Drain pump filter, hose |
| F5E2 | Door lock fault | Door latch |
| LF / LO FL | Long fill: water taking too long to fill | Check supply valves and inlet screens |
| Lid / Ld | Lid lock (top-loaders) | Lid lock assembly. Often the magnetic switch. |
| uL / UL | Unbalanced load | Redistribute laundry |
| PF | Power failure: cycle interrupted | Press start. If recurs, electrical. |
GE Washer Error Codes
GE uses E-codes with sub-numbers, plus some single-character codes:
| Code | Meaning | First Thing to Check |
|---|---|---|
| E20 / E22 | Drain error | Filter, drain hose, pump |
| E10 / E11 | Water inlet / fill error | Supply valves and hoses |
| E40 / E41 | Door / lid problem | Door latch |
| E50 | Motor / drive issue | Service call. |
| E60 / E61 | Heating issue | Service call. |
| E70 / E71 | Temperature sensor | Service call. |
The Universal First Steps for Any Error Code
Regardless of brand, do these three things before anything else:
1. Power-cycle the washer. Unplug for 2 minutes. Plug back in. About 25% of error codes are transient and clear with a reset. If it returns, you have a real problem.
2. Note the cycle phase when the error appeared. Was it during fill? Wash? Drain? Spin? This narrows the cause significantly even before you look up the specific code.
3. Check the drain pump filter (front-loaders). If your error is anything drain-related, this is the first place to look. The filter is behind a small access door at the front-bottom. Put a shallow towel-lined pan under it, unscrew the cap, let the water drain, and pull out whatever's in there. Lost socks, coins, hair ties, bra wires, and toy parts are the usual suspects.
When the Code Comes Back
If you've reset, cleaned the filter, and the same code returns within a cycle or two, it's time to call us. Continuing to run cycles on a washer that's reporting a fault can cause additional damage. Drain errors can leave water in places it shouldn't be. Motor errors can stress the inverter board. Heating errors can damage adjacent components.
When you call, have your model number ready and the exact code. That lets us bring the right parts on the first visit, which most of the time means a single-visit repair.
Kelly's Appliance Center has been repairing washers in Sonoma, Marin, and Napa counties since 1975. Factory authorized for every major brand. Book online here or call (707) 664-9702.
A Note About Control Boards
Many of the codes in this guide (especially the motor, control, and heater faults) can ultimately trace back to a failing control board. Manufacturer-replacement boards on premium washers can run $400-600. We rebuild boards at the component level when it makes sense. Usually a $50-100 fix instead of $500+. More on that here.
